I visited the Sarmarkand market early morning and caught one of the Non bread
barrow boys delivering the freshly baked bread to a stall. They use what looks like a
converted pram, to speed the fresh bread from tandoor oven to customer.
The Samarkand variety is a bit stodgy and I prefer the Tashkent Non,
which is lighter and more like Turkish bread. Locally though it has its
many fans, and the fresh bread sells out within minutes.
Breakfast was sorted, and I made my way to the railway station to get the train to Bukhara. The train was an old compartment, which I shared with a bunch of Russians. The Non Bread I had picket up at the market was passed around and quickly and gratefully consumed. It was still early in the morning and even I was surprised to see Vodka being fished out of bags The Khyzl Kum desert flashed by
accompanied to the sharing of food, vodka, and much laughing, despite my rather limited Russian, and my fellow passengers non existent English. The way all train journeys should be!
A new book packed with off the beaten track stories that take you from standing at the 'Gates of Hell' in Turkmenistan to taking part in the ancient Torajan ceremony of partying with their recently dug-up ancestors in Sulawesi. Travel to places that do not feature in any travel agents window.
#1 Bestseller to these remote Pacific Islands. Review: "Absolutely exhaustive guide to this fascinating place, great detail, anecdotes, and highly researched practical info too make this the perfect book to have on hand. This is how all guidebooks should be"
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