It had to be a mirage. A large frosted glass full of beer with a frothy head standing ten metres high in the Gobi desert, as the sands beneath were being blown into small drifts by the strong winds.
I had been travelling for two weeks along the Karakoram
Highway through Pakistan into China and not a drop of beer had passed my lips.
Apart from the can of Murree Lager that I had picked up from a insalubrious
hole in the wall in the back streets of Islamabad, but that barely counted as
beer as the sickly sweet Pakistani liquor had a quicker than usual passage into
a nearby toilet bowl.
But this was unmistakably a massive advertising board for
Tsingtao. The national beer of China. In the middle of the desert. A sign that
my beer drought was about to end. Later that evening, having made it through
the checkpoints and searches that are a way of life in the sensitive Xinjiang
region, I relaxed in the hotel bar, knocking back many cold bottles of the
lager from the small coastal town of Qingdao.
Almost any beer would have tasted good, well, maybe not
Murree Lager, but Tsingtao was perfect. Produced in what was once the main
German colony on the Chinese mainland, a combination of local yeast, barley,
mineral water and rice results in a tasty and thirst quenching brew. OK, it
would not exactly pass the Reinheitsgebot (German Beer purity law) but I knew
it as one of the most reliable and tasty brews in the country. That was until I
got to the capital, Beijing.
It may have taken China a few years longer than other
countries to experience the pleasures of craft beers, but it is now in catch-up
mode. Small breweries are springing up across the country. Nanjing has Master
Gao, Shenzhen has Taps, Shanghai has Boxing Cat (the latter recently purchased
by the global Anheuser-Busch conglomerate who clearly recognise a money making
opportunity when they see one, if not always a quality beer with their
flagship ale being Budweiser), but it is in Beijing that most of the small
breweries are concentrated in.
It was too good an opportunity to miss, and I spent a week sampling beers at a number of breweries around the city,
and here are the Far Flung Places top three breweries in Beijing. In reverse order, they are:
It might give you a headache if you drink too much, an advert for Airpocalypse Ale |
1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4
Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang district
A dimly lit brewery tap hidden away in a hutong courtyard.
Jiang A is packed with expats and only a few locals. The main claim to fame
here is their Airpocalyspe, a double IPA with a 8.8% strength, a nod towards
the appalling air pollution that Beijing can suffer, the price decreases in
tandem with the air quality! Slightly sweet, but with a nice alcoholic sting in
the tail. The Workers Pale Ale was my
pick of the brewery, a great session beer brewed in an American style, with a
full hoppy aftertaste.Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang district
A mention should be made of the Mijiaya Neolithic Ale which is based on a 5,000 year old recipe discovered from an archeological dig at Mijiaya in Shaanxi province. A barley based brew using all local ingredients it is proof that our forebears knew how to relax at the end of a hard day hunting mammoths, although it was a little too sour and sweet for my tastebuds, but nevertheless a fantastic chance to experience one of the oldest beers on earth.
It may take you a while to get through tasting all these. Only part of the Great Leap Brewing's list of beers. |
B12 Xinzhong Street, Dongcheng District
There are three locations for
what was the first craft brewery in Beijing, which started in 2010. I
went to the packed brewpub located near the Workers Stadium. Inside it
resembled a typical British pub, although with a lack of scotch eggs or pork
pies on the bar menu.
The beers however
were great. Some interesting experimentation with local ingredients has resulted
in the Honey Ma Gold, a dry flavoursome beer with more than a little spice,
made with the addition of honey from apiaries near the Great Wall, as well as added peppercorns.
The Hefeweizen brew,
Banana Wheat, went down beautifully on a hot Beijing day, a sweeter taste than
the normal German brews I generally drink, but it was packed full of flavour
and had a great wheaty nose.
I was hoping for more
from the Cinnamon Rock Ale, which seemed to have lost any hints of my favourite
spice in its overpowering hoppy taste, but this was made up for with the
full flavour from the Pale Ale #6 a terrific drop made from 100% Chinese
ingredients which kept me coming back for more.
#1. Slow Boat Brewery
Monkey's Fist IPA. Makes you thirsty just looking at it. |
#1. Slow Boat Brewery
Dongsi Ba Tiao 56 Hao
Dongcheng District
The signs were still being
polished on the outside of the new location for the Slow Boat Brewery when I
arrived. Modern design with the beer tanks built into the middle of the three
story building to remind you where the beer comes from.
The Slow Boat Brewery has taken
off since it was launched in 2011, and its beers are becoming available at
restaurants throughout Beijing, and with good reason, they are well brewed and
are full of flavour. The brewery prides itself on using no chemicals or
preservatives, and the beer is unpasteurised, which, fresh from a keg, has a
taste that is very hard to beat.
As with all the Beijing
breweries, there is a fair bit of experimentation. The Dragon Bay Agave Wheat,
which tastes like a cross between a tequila and a wheat beer, is an unusual
brew to start with, but it works, and has a long spicy aftertaste. The Peanut
Butter Destroyer Pale Ale involves a small amount of actual peanut butter in
the brew (not for those who suffer from anaphylaxis) which not surprisingly
adds to the nutty flavour in this smooth tasting beer.
The only ale I tried which did
not really work was the Hellburner Smoked Wheat, a little bit too smoky and
tart for my taste. But the more traditional ales, such as the Captain’s Pale Ale
and All Hands Amber Ale were nicely hopped in the American style and would act
as great session beers.
My
top recommendation would be the Monkey’s Fist IPA, a little strong at 6.2%
alcohol but packed full of flavour, with a long fruity aftertaste. Wonderful to
sip on as you rest up your legs after a long day walking on the Great Wall.
I
talked to one of the brewers behind the Slow Boat Brewery, Chandler Jurinka,
about his experiences as a brewer in Beijing.
FFP: Expats from outside of China mostly love beer of course, but
how has Slow Boat found the reaction from local Beijingers?
“When
we started out in 2011 most of our customers were Expats. Back then the
feedback we received was that Chinese drinkers don’t like bitterness and won’t
drink cold beer in the winter.
Men often came to the bar asking for sweet or “girl” beers for their girlfriends. But all of that changed a few years back. Local Chinese are now 65-70% of our customers. We find women often introduce Slow Boat to their boyfriends and IPA is far and beyond our most popular beer style with our Triple IPA (10.5%) being particularly popular.”
Men often came to the bar asking for sweet or “girl” beers for their girlfriends. But all of that changed a few years back. Local Chinese are now 65-70% of our customers. We find women often introduce Slow Boat to their boyfriends and IPA is far and beyond our most popular beer style with our Triple IPA (10.5%) being particularly popular.”
FFP: What is the story behind Peanut Butter Destroyer, a rather
unusual beer?
“ We’re always trying
out new approaches to beers we’ve done in the past. It keeps us engaged and
laughing. Kind of a way to entertain ourselves. Anyway, Daniel (Daniel Herbert,
the co-founder and co-brewer) came up with the idea of doing a peanut butter
and jelly beer and we all just looked at him in disbelief. Taking it as a challenge,
he set out to prove us wrong. Using real peanut butter with lots and lots of
pureed strawberry, I think Daniel did a damn nice job of making a very balanced
PB&J Pale Ale.”
FFP: How difficult is it to run a small brewery in China?
“The raw materials for brewing are readily available and
demand is growing, however the regulatory environment has not kept up with the
market. Regulation still favors large scale brewing which is unfortunate
because all of the innovation is being done at the nano-level.”
FFP: What are the future plans for Slowboat beers, as well as the
brewery, in China?
“We just released “Luchador on a boat”, a Mexican Saison
made with avocado honey, cumin, coriander, lime zest and tequila soaked
chilies. This years seasonal brews are going to be seaweed pale ale, Maple
bacon golden ale, and a chocolate sea-salt stout. And for the first time, we
will begin actively distributing our beers to other provinces."
Even hunter gatherers made time for a beer, Mijiaya Neolithic Ale |
0 comments